Understanding the nuances of various skin tones and types helps you tailor your technique and achieve perfect results (and satisfied clients) – every time!
This includes selecting the perfect pigment shade, determining the appropriate pressure, and being prepared for how the color will evolve over time.
And while ombre powder brows are definitely suitable for people of all skin types and tones, this article will focus on the unique considerations and techniques involved in performing PMU ombre brows on black skin. Let’s delve in!
Let’s Discuss the Particularities of Doing Ombre Brows on Black Skin
Before delving into the best pigment options for ombre powder brows on dark skin, let’s talk a bit about the distinct characteristics of Fitz 5-6 skin that bring about more challenges when it comes to PMU tattoos.
Melanin-rich skin has unique characteristics, and oiliness is one of them.
Usually, excess sebum production can be problematic for some eyebrow tattooing techniques, such as microblading and nanoblading because the sebum tends to blur the strokes and accelerate fading.
So the better options are machine brows.
There’s less chance of pigment migration and bleeding, and even if it does happen, it’ll still look powdery. So you can expect better longevity of ombre eyebrows on black skin compared to microblading.
Still, warn your clients not to skip touch-ups and to follow proper aftercare!
Another thing to note is that melanin-rich skin is usually on the thicker side which may require a bit more pressure upon pigment implementation.
Controlling the pressure is a lot easier with a machine than with a traditional microblading tool – but you still need to be careful not to go with too much pressure!
@iabrowsnbeauty Healed ombré brow results! Follow me on IG @ ia_brows or find me online at iabrows.com #browartist #pmulondon #ombrebrowsuk #ombrebrowslondon #microbladinglondon #tattoobrows #permanentmakeup #ombrebrowtraining #blackgirlmakeup ♬ original sound - 9ELLA
What Is Different About the Healing Process?
The recovery of PMU brows is the same for everyone, regardless of skin tone, but it can look much more intense on darker skin tones.
In fact, the ghosting phase of the healing process is where you get to see the most significant difference. During this stage, the treated skin will look very light and will be more noticeable the darker the skin.
Actually, the darker the skin, the more prominent it’ll be.
Brows will look patchy and uneven like the pigment didn’t take. But this is just a normal part of the process and the pigment usually comes back. Plus, all the necessary corrections will be made at the touch-up session when more pigment can be added.
Make sure to mention this to your client before the treatment so they’re prepared mentally.
Also – warn your client to be extra careful not to pick at the scabs. Besides the universal reasons scabs should never be ripped off, melanin-rich skin is at a greater risk of developing hypopigmentation if scabs are removed prematurely.
You can learn more about the ghosting stage of powder brows here.
@dominiece_ {1:30s 👀⏱️}Ombré Brow Healing Process (Micro-shading) Days 1-11! Also, am I the only one that wants to know how long a video is before I commit to it 🫣? No just me? 😂 #fyp #ombrebrows #ombrepowderbrows #powderbrowshealing #healingprocess #powderbrowsnyc #ombrebrowsnyc #ombrepowdereyebrows #blackgirltiktok #blackgirlluxury #blacktiktok #blackgirlmakeup #eyebrowshaping #pmubrows #pmubrowsnyc #nycombrebrows #nycblackgirltiktok #nycblackgirl ♬ original sound - Dominiece • Travel & Lifestyle
How to Pick the Right Pigment for Ombre Brows on Black Skin
There is a common misconception that darker skin tones require the use of significantly darker pigments.
Darker skin doesn’t mean you should go for a black pigment, as this can result in bluish tones later on. Instead, opt for deeper brown shades and add some warmth to the pigment mixture to avoid cool-toned healing.
When in doubt, just try to match the pigments as close to your client’s natural brow hairs as possible. A few shades darker than the skin should be enough to make the strokes sufficiently visible.
Best PMU Pigments for Ombre Brows on Black Skin
Here are some recommendations to simplify the process of selecting pigments for darker skin.
Perma Blend: Fitz Collection Tones 5-6
Perma Blend’s wide pigment selection caters to a variety of skin types, including a dedicated collection tailored for Fitzpatrick types 5-6, which are characterized by melanin-rich skin tones.
Within this specialized collection, you have a range of shades to select from, each carefully crafted to complement your client’s undertone.
Biotek: Rapid Shading Cosmopolitan & Martini
Rapid Shading collection from Biotek, has a versatile range of brown pigments designed specifically for machine brow shading.
The collection carries 5 shades – from light blonde to dark, almost black-brown. They all have neutral undertones so they’re an amazing choice for beginners as this kit covers a wide range of clients, including Fitz 5-6.
Tina Davies: Ebony & Bold Brown
Tina Davies’ collaboration with Perma Blend introduces a pigment collection that has become a foundation for many artists. Among these, Ebony stands out as the foolproof choice for PMU brows on melanin-rich skin.
It’s a cool, dark pigment with a yellow base that looks rich, almost black. If you need a more neutral, dark-value pigment with an orange base then Bold Brown is the perfect shade for slightly lighter skin tones.
Explore more pigment options here.
Examples of Ombre Powder Brows On Dark Skin
Let’s Sum Up
Understanding the unique characteristics of dark skin, selecting the appropriate pigments, and applying the correct technique are essential for achieving the best possible results.
Regardless of your preferred PMU technique, any PMU artist should have good knowledge of how different skin types and tones interfere with PMU pigments.
Take a look at what microblading on darker skin tones looks like.
Cover image source: Freepik
