Nano Brows: All About Machine Hair Strokes
Hair stroke brows are a brow PMU treatment that gives you natural-looking volume. We’re combining insights from our editor who got the treatment and the artist who performed it!
Emily’s brows by DLD Studios Boston
Explore more nano brows topics:
Swipe for more nano brows topics →
There are different brow tattoo techniques to choose from, depending on the look you want. Although microblading is still the most popular, nano brows AKA hair strokes done with a PMU machine, have emerged as a close second.
I decided to get the treatment done so I could share my experience with you, and I chatted with my lovely artist, Diandra Leigh Dente of Boston Seaport’s DLD Studios as she was giving me my dream brows to scoop up some expert insights for you.
Table of contents - Skip to a specific paragraph
What Are Nano Brows AKA Machine Hair Strokes?
Nano stroking gives the most contemporary yet versatile look of mimicking natural hairs, but taking it up a notch, says DLD. It uses tiny “hair-stroke tattoos” to create the illusion of individual brow hairs.
It’s a cosmetic eyebrow tattoo that gives the brows volume and definition by adding fine hair strokes between the natural hairs.
Original image by PMUHub
The final look is very natural – the strokes are indistinguishable from the hairs. The technique can create arches from scratch for people with very little to no brows, or just do a fill between natural brow strands.
The artist goes over every stroke 2-3 times, packing in pigment until the desired saturation is achieved.
This treatment is done with a PMU machine that implements PMU pigments into the dermis layer of the skin, deep enough to ensure it lasts a couple of years, but not forever.
How Long Do Machine Hair Strokes Last?
With proper care and touch-ups, you can expect for them to last for 1-3 years. But this depends on many different factors, including skin type, lifestyle choices (sun exposure), and skincare routine, explains DLD. Touch-up appointments can be used to refresh the color and maintain the desired shape.
Ready to Get New Brows?
Browse our base of salons & find an artist for your treatment!
Who Is a Candidate for Nano Brows?
Anyone who wants a natural-looking enhancement for their brows! They work on all skin types and tones.
Unlike microblading, which isn’t recommended for clients with oily skin and large pores due to strokes blurring, strokes created with a machine are more resilient to pigment migrations.
So you can get nano brows regardless of skin type, but be aware that pigments tend to fade faster from oilier skin.
Apart from that, there are certain contraindications, just like with any eyebrow tattoo.
Who Should Not Get Nano Brows?
The treatment is not safe for:
- People with diabetes (consult your doctor)
- People with any bleeding disorders
- People who take blood-thinning medications (consult your doctor and discontinue use if possible)
- People who’ve recently had Botox injections or fillers in the area (wait at least 2-4 weeks)
- Anyone pregnant or nursing
- People with a history of keloids or hypertrophic scarring
- People with viral infections or diseases
- People who are going through chemotherapy
- People with skin irritations, Rosacea, Eczema or Psoriasis near the treated area
- People whose skin was tanned recently
Personally, I’m totally healthy, and I’m not on any meds. My skin is normal.
Normal to dry skin is the ideal canvas, DLD clams. It retains pigment SO well, so you can expect crisp hair strokes and longer-lasting results.
My brows were relatively full to begin with – I just needed some shape-perfecting and sparse spots filled in. As you can see, my natural brow growth pattern is sloped downwards, which made my eyes look kind of sad. It also made me always lift one of my brows for pictures.
Original image by PMUHub
What I wanted was a lifting effect, which can be achieved by adding strokes at the arch, the highest point of the brows, and making that “angle” sharper.
Nano Brows Treatment
Let’s explain the most important aspects of the nano brows treatment.
What Does a Nano Brows Treatment Look Like?
Here are the main steps of the nano brows procedure.
1. Consultation
A consultation appointment can be done beforehand, or on the day of the procedure.
Many artists, including DLD, prefer to do it beforehand, as this provdes an opportunity to do a patch test and give it time to show potential complications.
You will get informed about the treatment, pre-care and aftercare and learn what to expect during and after the procedure.
Original image by PMUHub
The artist will assess your skin and check your medical record to make sure there are no contraindications.
DLD highlights the importance of setting expectations: During the consultation, you can discuss the desired outcome and answer any questions your client might have. Open communication ensures the client understands what to expect from the treatment, including the look, aftercare, healing process, and longevity of the results.
2. Design
The artist will draw on the shape of your future brows and ask you whether you agree with it. For hair stroke brows, a common practice is to draw in all the strokes in pencil.
This is what DLD did for me, and I had the opportunity to be picky about it: I wanted some strokes lifted, some erased, and together, we came up with a design that matched my wishes, but also aligned with my facial morphology which we sometimes don’t see, but a pro definitely does.
Original image by PMUHub
3. Pre-Numbing (OPTIONAL)
My treatment did not include numbing the brows before the first pass of tattooing, since DLD does a really light first pass.
But some artists do numb the brows beforehand.
If pre-numbing is used, a topical anesthetic is applied to the brow area. It takes 15-20 minutes to start working, and once it does, the tattooing starts.
4. First Pass
The artist creates the hair strokes with an electric device. The first pass is the initial round of pigmentation, where the strokes are done really lightly, and built up in further passes.
Original image by PMUHub
5. Secondary Numbing
The first pass opens the skin, which allows the artist to apply a special type of numbing that will make them go really numb and allow the artist to reach the depth they need for proper application without causing pain.
DLD used a numbing spray on me and let it sit for about 3 minutes before wiping and moving on to the second pass.
Her numbing time activates faster than the average technique because of the use of Red Light Therapy to complement her technique in the process.
6. Additional Pass(es)
DLD went back in and went over each stroke at least once more.
She kept assessing how well my skin was taking to the pigment and added more depth by layering the pigment onto each individual stroke wherever necessary. She did this to ensure each stroke displayed realism, texture, and movement
Depending on how well the pigment takes to the skin, as well as the individual artist’s speed/pressure, 2-3 passes are done. DLD explains: you should not go over the stroke more than 3 times unless it is to perfect the detail of the stroke.”
After that, the brows are thoroughly cleaned, and the results are finally revealed.
Here are mine!
Original image by PMUHub
7. Touch Up
Once your brows heal from this, 6 to 8 weeks later, you need to have a follow-up session, during which the artist adds pigment in the spots that may have healed lighter and makes any necessary corrections.
After this, you’re all done and you can finally enjoy your perfect arches.
When Should I Get a Nano Brows Touch Up?
Once your eyebrows heal completely, at least 6 weeks after the initial session.
With DLD, the first touch up is mandatory as the brows are considered incomplete until then. It will fix any spots that healed lighter or lost dimension. The detail done during the retouch will add texture and realism for maximum longevity and best results, Diandra explains.
This initial touch up is obligatory with most artists and techniques. It’s a perfecting session and considered part of the treatment.
Further touch ups are not mandatory. You can get them whenever you want to boost the color. Most clients like to get a yearly touch up.
How Long Does the Treatment Take?
Nano brows are created over 2 sessions: the initial implementation and the 6-8 week touch up.
The initial treatment takes about 2-2.5 hours. If the brows are created from scratch, the treatment will probably take even longer.
The touch up session is shorter. This is an opportunity to assess how the brows have healed and add more pigments where necessary – some of it may fade during healing.
Depending on the client’s healed results and the amount of work that needs to be done, DLD explains that it shouldn’t take more than an hour, as long as the client has followed proper after care. If the client has not followed proper aftercare, an additional session may be needed to rebuild the pigment where it was lost.
Do Nano Brows Hurt?
You may experience some discomfort during the treatment, but no significant pain. Artists use a numbing cream to eliminate the pain, but you may feel pressure and a pinching sensation.
My treatment in particular was an absolute breeze.
My artist did her gentle first pass without numbing, and I mostly just felt vibrations from the machine. I only felt a few strokes here and there. It’s a sting-ey type of pain, a needle poking your skin, but it’s super thin so it’s nothing major.
Numbing was applied for the second pass, and it was more or less the same – I just felt the occasional sting that was mostly drowned out by the vibration from the machine.
So, no, in my experience – machine hair strokes do not hurt.
Once the anesthetic wears off after the treatment, you might feel some tenderness. You can also expect some redness and swelling, but it will subside in a day or 2.
I did not, because of the use of infrared light for an anti-inflammatory approach. My healing was accelerated but this is very personal and depends on how gentle your artist is, how your skin reacts, and if an anti-inflammatory approach such as DLD’s was used to their overall technique.
Is the Treatment Safe?
Generally considered non-invasive, machine hair strokes are quite safe if done properly.
Potential risks are:
- Allergic reactions
- Infection
- Skin damage
Allergic reactions to pigments are very rare. A patch test done before the procedure eliminates this possibility.
Whenever the skin is opened, there’s a certain risk of infection. But if the treatment is done in a sterile environment and you follow the aftercare, everything should be fine.
Plus, any type of tattooing carries a small risk of permanent scarring if the needle goes too deep or if the skin is overworked.
That’s why you should only trust certified, licensed and experienced artists who work in sterile conditions. Never go to an uncertified, self-taught artist!
Preparation for Machine Hair Strokes
Proper prep ensures the treatment goes without complications.
How Do I Prepare?
- Stop using retinol, glycolic and salicylic acid, Vitamin C, or other anti-aging products on the forehead area 1 month prior to the treatment. These thin out your skin and it’ll be over sensitive and bleed.
- If you take blood-thinning medications, consult your doctor and see if you can discontinue use for a couple of weeks before the treatment.
- If you’ve had Botox or fillers in the area, wait at least 2 weeks.
- Don’t do any facials at least 2 weeks before the treatment.
- Don’t take ibuprofen, aspirin, and fish oil supplements for at least 2 weeks prior to the treatment. These thin out the blood and you’ll bleed more
- Don’t go sunbathing or tanning for at least 10 days prior to the treatment. If your skin gets sunburned, you’ll have to postpone it.
- Don’t pluck or wax your eyebrows at least 1 week prior to the treatment.
- Avoid alcohol and caffeine 24 hours prior to the treatment. These thin out the blood and you’ll bleed more.
- Don’t work out on the day of the treatment.
Nano Brows Aftercare
The actual treatment is only half the job – caring for your brows properly afterward is just as important for getting good healed results.
Once you’re finished with your treatment, your skin will need some time to heal, during which you need to pay some special attention to it.
The basic rules of aftercare include:
- cleaning your eyebrows regularly, but not getting them soaking wet,
- avoiding applying any skincare products except those recommended by your artists,
- and not picking the scabs.
To learn all about proper post-care, read our Aftercare Guide.
Can I Wear Makeup After Nano Brows Treatment?
Not until the brows are healed – until peeling ends, so around 2 weeks after the procedure.
You can wear makeup on the lower half of your face, but be careful not to contaminate the brow area when removing it.
Nano Brows Healing Process
It takes 4-6 weeks for your brows to completely heal. This is how long it takes for the tissue underneath the skin surface to recover, and that’s why you can’t get a touch up sooner than that.
The surface symptoms of healing don’t last that long.
Your nano brows will go through several phases during the healing cycle and not all of them will be very attractive.
First, they’ll be a bit red and irritated, and the strokes will look quite dark. Then, you might notice a scabby film forming over them, and it’ll flake off after a day or 2. The strokes underneath will look quite light, but the color will darken back up slightly over the next couple of weeks.
Flaking is the least pleasant, but once the brows have peeled off, the surface healing is over.
Learn about Nano Brows Healing Stages in this guide.
Avoid the following activities so your brows heal properly and avoid infections:
- Swimming
- Sports or anything that will cause excessive sweating
- Saunas, steam baths, hot baths, long showers or jacuzzis
- Too much sun exposure
- Any skincare product not prescribed by your artist
- Any kind of beauty treatments, especially chemical peels
- Picking, peeling, or scratching the pigmented area
- Sleeping on your face
Nano Brows Side Effects
Since the treatment opens up the skin, some aftereffects are inevitable. In the first 48 hours after the procedure, you can expect some redness, swelling, and tenderness.
If these symptoms continue past day 3 or 4, contact your artist. You may be dealing with an infection or an allergic reaction.
Then, as the wounds start closing up, scabs will form all over the surface of your brows, and they’ll eventually start flaking. They will probably be itchy and won’t look that great. Do not touch the scabs at any stage of the process.
Personally, I didn’t really get any of these. There was some slight flaking, but nothing major due to the RLT used throughout the process. It set me up for accelerating healing, in addition to using the described care.
Can Nano Brows Be Removed?
Yes. If your nano brows don’t work out and you don’t like the results, or you decide you’re tired of your nano brows, you can get them removed.
Your options are laser, saline, or acid removal.
But all these are done gradually and you’ll have to get up to 10 sessions, with 6-8 weeks apart. All 3 methods require periods of healing after each session, and it can get pricey.
Image source: Instagram @empressbrowpdx
How Much Do Nano Brows Cost?
The average price of nano brows treatment is around $660, but it can vary between $200 and $1700, depending on location, the experience and the exclusivity of the artist, among other factors.
For more information, visit our nano brow cost guide.
Nano Brows VS Microblading
Microblading is a manual technique done with a hand-held blade that’s dragged through the skin. Machine hair strokes are done with a PMU machine, and the needle pierces the skin in tiny dots that add up to a hair stroke.
A machine can give more solid or more ombre strokes, and the patterns can be more elaborate.
Unlike microblading, which is not suitable for oily skin, nano brows are good for all skin types.
Nano brows tend to last a bit longer than microblading, up to 2.5 years.
To satisfy my curiosity, DLD shared her thoughts on this topic: Since nano stroking isless invasive, it causes less trauma to the skin. This means longer-lasting results, a gentler immediate after-effect, and an overall better customer experience.
For more information, visit our guide Nano Brows vs Microblading.
My Final Thoughts
I’m super happy with my brows, which I knew I would be. I knew that machine hair strokes were the right choice for me, as I definitely wanted a natural, my-brows-but-better effect, so the choice was down to either microblading or nano brows.
In the end, I did always prefer the look of strokes created with a machine as they taper at the tips and have a fuller body, just like an actual brow hair.
So I had no worries in terms of the esthetic aspect.
I wasn’t exactly worried about the process itself, either. I handled pain well generally and I have no problem with needles – which is lucky because lip fillers are a life-changer for me (read my experience here).
But I was much more invested into the technical aspects of the treatment than the esthetic. I kept interrogating Diandra throughout the procedure – What are you doing now? Why? How?
What can I say, it’s a déformation professionnelle, but that’s why you now have this thorough guide enriched with my own experience and Diandra’s professional insights to help you make an informed decision!
Want Brows Like Mine?
Schedule a consultation with Diandra right now!
WHY TRUST THIS GUIDE
This guide combines insights from a client who got machine hair strokes, and the brow technician who performed her treatment, plus all our professional experience of 5+ years of studying and researching the permanent makeup industry. We also provide you with links to useful studies, if you wanna go even more in-depth.
LEARN MORE ABOUT NANO BROWS
Explore more nano brows topics:
Swipe for more nano brows topics →
SHARE
Weekly Insights Into the PMU Industry
Support us so we can keep providing you with free education, information & inspiration.
