Lip Blush + Lip Concerns: How to Tackle Cold Sores, Fordyce Spots & More

By Katarina V.| Last updated on January 26, 2024
li[ blush and conditions
⏱️ 7 min read

Every PMU artist encounters a client that has a specific condition like Fordyce spots, cold sores, or freckles on their lips. These issues can massively affect their confidence and it’s up to you to explain to them all the benefits that permanent makeup has to offer.

Here enters lip blushing as the ultimate solution, a popular PMU treatment that will probably change your client’s life and boost their confidence.

So, get ready to talk about lip blush troubleshooting, different lip problems, and how getting a lip tattoo can solve them!

How Does Lip Blushing Help with Different Lip Conditions?

As you already know, lip tattooing involves a careful and precise application of pigment to the lips, delicately tinting and contouring to create the shape and color you desire, and conceal a specific flaw.

And the best part about it? It comes in various shapes, styles, and forms, so you can pick and choose the most suitable technique, depending on the client’s issue.

So, if your clients never leave the house without a lip product, it’s time to reveal them the secret – lip blush!

Every lip problem is specific and may not be visible to someone else’s eye. So, let’s get deep and intimate with these specifics and go through every single one of them.

lip blushing before and afterImage source: Instagram @agnespermanent_

Lip Blush Troubleshooting: Types of Lip Conditions

Many people decide to get their lips tattooed due to aging and asymmetry, but this treatment is actually a part of the bigger picture. It can help with anything from scarring to albinism, and we’re here to discuss every single challenge that every PMU artist encounters daily.


This issue is a common concern for many clients and can be seen very often. Uneven pigmentation, which is a side effect of this skin condition, can complicate the harmonious results of lip blush, which makes it even harder for artists to pick the right pigments.

lip blush hyperpigmentationImage source: Instagram @siciliano.lulu

Neutralizing lip hyperpigmentation demands great expertise and precision. The most important part of solving it is creating a plan and following the steps carefully.

The artist needs to carefully examine each client’s lip anatomy and skin texture and then decide on the appropriate technique and color combinations that will suit their individual needs.

Color correction is the most important step of this process so make sure you have your PMU color theory down to a T.

You also need the right pigments. This article will help you choose.

Whether opting for feathering, layering, or strategic blending, these methods harmonize the lip blush process with the natural contours, effectively addressing and enhancing the unique features of each lip.

lip blushing hyperpigmentation before and afterImage source: Instagram @sculptedstudios

Albinism & Vitiligo

You have probably heard the phrase every individual is beautiful in their own way a million times, but those with albinism and vitiligo are truly on a different level, aren’t they?

Tattooing a person with melanin-induced problems is a very challenging task. It can imply either shading up the borders of the lips to create a contour lost due to lack of melanin, or shading in isolated spots of hypopigmentation within the surface of the lips.

lip blush on vitiligo lipsImage source: Instagram @studiojadetattoos

In either case, the goal is to create as natural results as possible, which takes thorough color theory knowledge, practice and experience.

So, if you happen to encounter a client with vitiligo or albinism, your main objective should be to create harmonious, subtle lips that will balance out the rest of the face and enhance their beauty even more!

Lips affected by these issues require a gradual approach to layering pigments. Building color over time ensures that the enhancement is nuanced and natural, avoiding an overwhelming appearance.

vitiligo lips and lip blushingImage source: Instagram @borcianilondon

Cold Sores

Caused by the herpes simplex virus, cold sores can pose great challenges to achieving flawless lip blush results.

It goes without saying that lip blush cannot be done over an active outbreak, so the treatment must be postponed.

But post-treatment flare-ups triggered by the trauma of the needling are also a potential complication, as severe cases can disturb the healing process.

They’re relatively likely to happen on clients who are generally prone to them, and relatively unlikely if they are not.

The PMU artist needs to know if the client is prone to cold sores so that they can approach the treatment in a way that minimizes the risk of a flare-up.

@judy.lim Replying to @Elva Solorzano don’t make the same mistake i did 🥲 #lipblushtattoo #lipblushprecare #coldsoressuck #lipblushing ♬ original sound - Judy Lim | Makeup Artist

The first line of defense is on the client, though: they should do what they can to keep their immunity as high as possible in the days leading up to the procedure.

Some artists also advise their clients to use antiviral topicals or take oral medication a few days before and after the procedure to ensure the best results, but a physician should always be consulted.

Tailoring the pigment application involves carefully considering the affected areas, adjusting pressure, and adopting a meticulous approach to minimize trauma.

Still, if a cold sore does happen, don’t panic. Unless it spreads to a large area and gets really intense, it shouldn’t disturb the healing process so much. If it gets a bit out of control, the touch up session will fix any imperfections.

Here’s more information on handling cold sores after lip blush.

cold sore flareup after lip blushImage source: Instagram @anna.marastudio

Lip Freckles

If you ever come across a client with lip freckles (and you probably will), there are two paths to take, depending on their preferences.

You can either try to camouflage the freckles altogether or take a gentler approach by opting for an aquarelle lip effect, where your client’s freckles will still be partially visible.

lip blush on frecklesImage source: Instagram @parlourdala 

It’s quite artistic to tattoo someone with this pattern as you get to pick and choose the correct pigments. Think earthy, soft tones to harmonize with the rest of their face and complement the freckles.

It’s a good idea to wisely contour the lips without making them super prominent. The freckles should still take center stage if the client enjoys that kind of look.

lip freckles and lip blushImage source: Instagram @luzcosmetictattooing


The presence of scars on the client’s lips presents a unique challenge and quite honestly, your time to showcase your talent. Don’t fear doing a lip blush on such an individual, all it takes is a bit of time and precision.

Choosing the right technique in this situation might sound tricky, but a seasoned PMU artist should ideally choose the feathering technique that gradually builds up pigment and blends in with the scar or cleft lip.

lip scarring Image source: Instagram @rvbeauty___ 

A neutral color palette will be perfect for someone with lip-scarring to soften the visual impact, as well as strategic highlighting and shading. By doing this, you create a contour that draws the eye to the enhanced features of the lips rather than the scars.

However, what you need to know is that scars take pigment and heal in unpredictable ways. Retention can be quite low, so there might be need for doing 3+ sessions. The scar area might heal slightly (or dramatically) different from the surrounding tissue.

So you need to manage client expectations.

lip scarring conditionImage source: Instagram @gasparmelinda.pmu

Fine Lines & Wrinkles

Wrinkles on and around the lips are made by constantly moving and puckering them. Many consider this a flaw and dislike the look of it, but these wrinkles can be seen as a unique feature that contributes to their story.

The best option for ironing those out would be fillers and lip blush combined, but if the client only wants lip blus, some improvement can be made by creating an illusion of more volume by rosying up the lips.

Choosing a very soft color only slightly different from the natural lip tone and not too shart in contrastin with the surrounding skin is best option since it will soften up and minimize the look of the wrinkles.

fine lines and wrinkles lipsImage source: Instagram @infinity_cosmetic_tattoo

This approach aims to refine rather than erase, respecting the individuality of the smoker’s lines while enhancing the overall aesthetics of the lips.

To complement the lip’s natural color and bring some life back to it, opt for soft and neutral tones to enhance but not overpower the rest of the face.

Uneven Lip Shape

Many people freak out when they realize that they have an asymmetrical face or uneven lip shape but news flash, we all do. But, luckily, there’s a perfect solution for lip asymmetry and it’s called lip blush.

If you happen to get a client with uneven lip shape, make sure to focus on contouring them first to fix the asymmetry and then fill out the rest of the lip. You always want to create harmony and balance and give them the shape they want.

uneven lip shapeImage source: Instagram @beautydreamsla

As for the pigments, feel free to use any colors you think will be the perfect match for them, as long as they align with the client’s wish to fix the asymmetry.

Fordyce Spots

Many individuals with this problem have been searching for miracle treatments for Fordyce spots but it could be easily solved with a lip tattoo. Camouflaging this issue with lip blush seems like a simple, permanent, and aesthetically pleasing solution!

Fordyce spots are kind of like a mosaic of individuality, telling a story that is both unique and beautiful. Luckily, for those who don’t like the look of them, a PMU artist is here to sprinkle a little pigment magic.

A lip tattoo can successfully camouflage the appearance of these white bumps, but it’s important to understand that it does not get rid of them, they will still be there, just strategically hidden.

@lashdstar Lip Blush can cover up the fordyce spots. Fordyce spots are oil glands and it got more visible after getting lip fillers. #lipblushtattoo #lipblush #beforeandafter #lipstrasformation #yvrbeauty #vancouverbc #pmuartist #lipblushing #makeup #foryoupage #britishcolumbia ♬ Aesthetic - Tollan Kim

Bottom Line

Lip tattoo problems are extremely common and normal in the PMU world, and almost every client desires to conceal a certain visual flaw. It’s up to you, the artist, to be aware of these issues and understand which techniques work, and which don’t.

Facing a challenge like this seems tricky, but with the right mindset, a bit of artistry, and a lot of passion, you can create amazing before-and-after transformations and leave your clients feeling more beautiful than ever!

Cover image source: Freepik



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