Lashing in Layers: How to Do It & Why It’s Great

By PMUHub Editorial Team| Last updated on June 23, 2023
lashing in layers
⏱️ 5 min read

As a technician, you already know that extension lengths, diameters, and fan widths determine the final look of your client’s lashes.

But knowing how to attach extensions quicker and create a symmetrical lash look takes some practice and skill. In this blog, you’ll learn all about lashing in layers and how it can benefit your next procedure, plus which product and taping methods to use. Let’s get started!

What Are Lash Layers or Lash Rows?

Most people’s natural lashes grow in several rows instead of just a straight line.

Typically you’ll find that your clients have 3-5 rows of eyelashes, depending on their thickness. These rows form a top layer, a middle layer, and a bottom layer.

The bottom layer is the lash row that is closest to the waterline, while the top layer is closest to the crease of the eye, and closest to the technician when working. Sometimes, it can get quite tricky to differentiate between these layers.

To get a better understanding of how many lash layers a client has, you can use two fingers to gently lift their eyelid and take a look at their lashes from the side. After some practice, we’re sure you’ll get the hang of it!


Image source: Instagram @lashboxla

How Does Lashing in Layers Work?

The lash layering technique is all about achieving a voluminous, multidimensional effect with careful extension placement. So, when working on a new lash set, here are some important things to keep in mind.

First, you need to decide on a lash map and the style you want to achieve. This is important because layered lash extensions are done differently with classics and volumes.

When working with classics, you want to start by placing the longest lash extensions at the bottom layer of your client’s lashes. The opposite applies to volume and mega volume lashes because you don’t want to put the heaviest lashes at the bottom and create a droopy effect.

Next, start layering eyelash extensions by applying a 1mm shorter length to the middle row of your client’s lashes. Take a 1mm shorter length than previously used, and apply it to the top lash layer.

This kind of placement when lashing in layers will ensure that when your client opens their eyes, all the layers will look equal and form a perfectly even top line.

Understanding the Lash Layering Technique

The eyelash extension layering technique is a handy thing to learn as it will save you time when isolating and working on complex sets like volume and mega volume.

But before taking a look into the layering process, let’s learn the best taping method for layering eyelash extensions:

Taping for Lash Layers

Tape is your best friend when it comes to working with lash layers. But to achieve the best isolation for eyelash layers you need to be mindful of your taping technique.

For lashing in layers, the best option is to try the tape-back method. You can do this method by grabbing a piece of tape and applying it to the underside of your client’s natural lashes and gently pulling back upwards towards the crease of the eye.

Lashing in Layers – Process Explained

The lash layering technique implies the same lash prep as any other extension procedure. You should always cleanse your client’s natural lashes by giving them a lash bath to remove any oils, dirt, or makeup residue before applying the extensions.

Once you’ve prepped your client’s lashes, applied the gel undereye pads, and tapped their lashes back using the tape-back method, the next step is isolation. Grab a pair of straight tweezers and isolate the lashes by pulling out the bottom lash layer from under the tape.

Apply the extensions to the isolated layer. Once complete, tape the lashes down to the gel pads placed under the client’s eyes and repeat this process until all the layers are done.

After all the lashes have been layered, carefully inspect each lash to ensure that the extensions are securely bonded and free of any adhesive residue. Use adhesive remover and micro-brushes to clean up any excess glue if necessary.

Educate your client on the proper aftercare and maintenance of their lash extensions. Advise them to avoid water, steam, or oil-based products for the first couple of hours post-treatment or provide them with a free lash extension aftercare kit.

What Are the Benefits of Lashing in Layers?

The eyelash extension layering technique can be beneficial to lash technicians in several different ways. Here’s what can be achieved when lashing in layers:

Quicker Lashing

Creating a customized look for each client can sometimes take more time than expected resulting in your and your client’s discomfort. Thankfully, the lash layering technique can save you time and make the whole application process more comfortable for your clients.

A More Even Top Line

Layering can allow you to apply different lengths to different layers in different ways, which means that you can achieve a perfectly even top line. This is especially suitable for volume sets.

Depending on the look you’re going for, you can also achieve a more natural top line, or a really wispy, fluttery top line – that’s why lashing in layers is one of the most important techniques to master.

No More Stickies

By separating out the layers with tape you’re actually actively avoiding getting stickies. As the lashes are more separated from their neighbors, there’s less chance of them getting stuck together.

You’ll also find it much easier to see those really tricky baby lashes that tend to get stuck to the extensions and are arguably the most damaging type of stickie.

So, Should You Give Lashing in Layers a Try?

The eyelash extension layering technique is a game-changer when it comes to creating seamless results in a much shorter period of time.

By prioritizing isolation and using proper taping methods lash technicians can achieve stunning results with the layering technique. Embrace it as an opportunity to unleash your creativity and provide your clients with the lash results they deserve!

Find more useful tips for beginners and experienced lash techs here.

Cover image source: Freepik

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