Lash Styles for Different Eye Shapes: What Works Best for Each Client

By PMUHub Editorial Team| Last updated on June 21, 2023
eyelash extensions styles for different eye shapes
⏱️ 5 min read

As a lash tech, you’ve probably received clients that know what kind of lash style they want to get right off the bat.

To conform to their wishes, you gave them what they wanted only to find that something isn’t quite right. That’s why every technician should know that it’s not the style of lashes that makes eyes pop – it’s the way they’re adapted to the natural eye shape.

To help you provide your clients with the best possible lash results, we’re here to talk about lash styles for different eye shapes and help you find the perfect match. So, let’s get started!

Features of the Eyes to Consider When Choosing Lash Styles for Different Eye Shapes

The shape of the eyes depends on the positioning of the inner and outer corner in relation to each other, and the morphology of the eyelid. Eye size is also a factor that can make the eye lean towards a certain shape.

Lash styles for different eye shapes are chosen so that certain features are disguised, certain features are enhanced, and the natural beauty of the eyes is brought out!

Best Lash Style for Hooded Eyes

When it comes to finding the right lash styles for different eye shapes, hooded eyes can be the trickiest to work with. If your client has hooded eyes, opting for the wrong curl can make a big impact in their final look.

For hooded eyes, the best curls are the M, L, and L+.

The M curl pairs well with hooded eyes because it creates a lifted effect, while the L curl opens up the eye and makes the color pop thanks to its slight curvature. The L+, also called the LD, has a more exaggerated curl and really gives that just-got-my-lashes-done look.

When it comes to style, the best match would be a doll eye or cat eye.

Doll lashes are the longest in the center, hiding the droopy parts of the skin above the eye and making it rounder and more open. The cat-eye has the longest lashes placed on the outer corner and shorter ones on the inner one. This creates an elongated and lifted effect.

Overall, it’s best to stick to classic and natural styles and always go for wispy lashes.

What to Avoid: Stay away from C and D curls and heavily voluminous styles to avoid overburdening the eye both visually and physically – really big lashes can feel uncomfortable on hooded eyes.


Image source: Instagram @dalunasalon

Best Lash Style for Almond Eyes

Almond eyes are most likely the easiest eye shape to work with in terms of trying on different styles of makeup and lash extensions because almost all styles fit them well.

They’re also the most common eye shape, so you’ll probably encounter these clients most often.

In terms of curls, C and D are the best types.

Anything over that may look too much, but will still look great if styled properly. That means that your client will have to do their makeup in a more dramatic style to fit the lashes.

In terms of style, it depends on the look you want to achieve since all styles will look good.

The cat and fox eye styles are great if you’re aiming for a more sultry, elongated look, while doll lashes will make the eye appear rounder and more innocent. Squirrel lashes are a safe option somewhere between the two.

What to Avoid: You can’t really go wrong here, any style works as long as the client likes it!

What to Avoid: You can’t really go wrong here, any style works as long as the client likes it!


Image source: Instagram @donnabaev

Best Lash Style for Round Eyes

Round eyes naturally look more open and awake, so the most popular styles are those that elongate the eye and steer it toward a more almond-shaped look.

The best curls for rounded eyes are C-curls. The bouncier D could end up making the eye look too round and throw off the balance of the face, while less dramatic curls might end up looking too close to your natural lashes.

The best styles are cat and fox lashes since they make the eyes look more elongated.

What to Avoid: Lash techs usually avoid giving their round-eyed clients lashes that open the eye even further (such as dollies) since it may leave them looking permanently shocked.


Image source: Instagram @uellabeauty

Best Lash Style for Downturned Eyes

Similar to hooded eyes, downturned eyes have been severely underrepresented in the beauty industry. Because of that, it takes some knowledge and testing different styles to find what works best.

The top choice for curls is a combination of C and D, where curlier lashes are placed closer to the outer corner to achieve a lifted effect and create a balance with the natural curvature of your eye.

Squirrel lashes are the best style for downturned eyes. They’re similar to the cat and fox in that the longest lashes are close to the outer edge of the lash line The difference is that the peak isn’t at the very end, but a few millimeters closer to the iris, creating a lifted effect.

You can also try doll lashes, but the effect may be different depending on how downturned your clients’ eyes are.

What to Avoid: Fully cat-eyed styles will counter the natural downward curve in an unflattering way.


Image source: Instagram @farnaaz_eyelash

Lash Styles & Eye Size

No matter the size of your eyes, their shape should still be the most important factor in determining the right style for lash extensions.

Still, there are some general pieces of advice you can stick to if your eyes are on the smaller or bigger end of the scale and are looking for a way to make them appear more in balance with the rest of the face.

Here are the recommended lash styles for different eye shapes according to size:

Best Lash Extension Style for Small Eyes

If in the case of smaller eyes, you may be inclined to go for an opening style, such as the dolly. But small eyes can still be rounded, and the dollies look may end up looking unflattering. That’s why it’s important to take eye shape over all other factors when choosing a lash style.

Try a look with hybrid lashes. The combination of classic and volume lashes will give a more dramatic look without being too overbearing. Avoid mega and Russian volume sets, as they will look too heavy and be the only focal point of the entire face.

Read more about lash extension styles for small eyes here.

Best Lash Style for Big Eyes

Although big eyes can fall under any of the shapes we talked about, they’re too often confused with round eyes. But, when it comes to lash extensions, it’s okay to follow the same rules.

The cat shape will look the best because it will elongate the eye, while it’s recommended that you avoid doll lashes so that the eyes don’t look too big in comparison to the rest of your face.

To Conclude

Choosing the best lash styles for different eye shapes can be quite the challenge. If you choose the wrong type of lash extension length or curl, you risk further enhancing some irregularities in eye shape.

So, before you make a final decision on the lash look you or your client wants to go for, take a closer look at their eye shape and eye size and customize a lash map that will suit them best.

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