The main function of eyebrows is a well-known fact, but it seems that only recently have people started to realize what impact an eyebrow shape has on the overall appearance and attractiveness of a face.
The popularity of permanent makeup treatments for eyebrows skyrocketed when dense, big eyebrows came into fashion. Since there was no other way to correct the overplucked 90s eyebrows, women and men turned to microblading and other popular treatments.
In this article, we’ll explain eyebrow anatomy and give tips for achieving the perfect eyebrow shape.
Eyebrow Anatomy Basics
Each eyebrow consists of three main parts: the root, the body, and the tail. Let’s talk about each of them and give you some tips.
Image source: Instagram @pmuhub
The Root of the Brow
The root or the head of the eyebrow is the part closest to the nose. Eyebrow artists need to find the perfect beginning of the brow according to the client’s face morphology. This is the first step in the mapping process.
The beginning of the brow has to be in line with the inner corner of the eye. Also, if you are a hair stroke eyebrow artist, make sure your head hair strokes look as natural as possible (see the image below).
If you do powder brows, the root of the brows is usually softer than the tail and the pixels are delicate and sophisticated.
Image source: Instagram @pmuhub
The Body of the Brow
The body of the eyebrow is the middle section that extends along the arch of the brow. When it comes to correct mapping, the most important thing is to find the perfect arch height.
The arch of the brow shouldn’t differ too much from the client’s natural arch. You need to improve it, not change it completely. To find the arch, make a vertical line in line with the outer part of the iris.
Another important part of the eyebrow body is the spine, the spot where the upper and lower hair strokes meet. Different clients have different brow spines, and it’s important to follow the natural hair growth direction to find out which spine it is.
Here’s an illustration of the most common eyebrow spines:
Image source: Instagram @pmuhub
The Tail of the Eyebrow
The eyebrow tail is the outermost section that extends toward the temple. It’s thinner and shorter than the body, and the hairs tend to point slightly downward. It is important to decide where the tail ends.
The tail should take ⅓ of the eyebrow length. Also, it shouldn’t go below the head/bulb of the eyebrow. Otherwise, the face will look sad.
The tail can also be very high, and it depends on the eyebrow shape, which we’ll discuss further in the article.
Image source: Instagram @pmuhub
Finding the Right Eyebrow Shape
The eyebrow anatomy parts listed above are not the only things you should think about when you are deciding on the perfect eyebrow shape for your client.
The thickness and the length of the eyebrow are just as important. Permanent makeup treatments for eyebrows are usually there to enhance the natural shape and length of a person’s eyebrows, to fill in the gaps, and maybe lift them a little bit to make the eyes look less droopy.
But if a person has very little brow hair or no eyebrow hair at all, this can be tricky, and only experienced PMU artists who understand eyebrow anatomy can deal with the challenge of creating eyebrows from scratch.
That is why mapping is so important. This illustration shows how to find the perfect beginning, arch, and tail of the eyebrow for every client:
Image source: Instagram @pmuhub
Different Eyebrow Shapes
Permanent makeup treatments are custom-made – and they really need to be.
There are different eyebrows shapes and they suit different face shapes. The eyebrow shape can be influenced by factors such as facial bone structure, muscle tone, and personal preference.
Changing an eyebrow shape just slightly can do so much to a person’s face – it can make it look more youthful, rested, and fresh. Here are some different eyebrows shapes:
Image source: Instagram @pmuhub
Straight Eyebrows
This is currently one of the most popular eyebrow shapes. It is also called a flat eyebrow and the tail is lifted, they are almost horizontal across the brow bone and there is no distinct arch or curve.
This shape suits people with long or oval faces, as it visually shortens and compliments it.
You can read more about straight brows here.
Image source: Instagram @bellahadid
Sharp-Angled Eyebrows
These eyebrows have a prominent, defined peak and create a dramatic and bold look. These are a usual choice for diamond face shapes, or to balance out the softer contours of a round face.
Image source: Instagram @keiraknightleyofficiall
Soft-Angled Eyebrows
Soft-angled eyebrows, just as their name suggests, are similar to the eyebrows described above, but the arch is not that high – these are perfect for an oval face.
Image source: Instagram @jenniferaniston
Rounded Eyebrows
Rounded eyebrows will add softness to a face and that’s why they make a perfect choice for people with prominent facial features.
S-Shape or Curved Eyebrows
These are perfect for square faces, to add some but not too much softness. The arch is a bit more prominent than with rounded eyebrows.
Image source: Instagram @margotrobbieofficial
What Else Is Important to Know
Eyebrow symmetry is considered the most desirable outcome, but you shouldn’t strive for it at all costs. Here is the article that will help you understand it better: How to Draw Symmetrical Eyebrows for PMU: Tips & Tools.
Our article How to Create the Perfect Eyebrows Shape for Your Brow Tattoo Client will help you with some useful mapping and PMU tips.
Remember that each client is different and there is no universal brow shape, style, thickness, or color that fits everyone. Practice makes perfect so always keep learning, and the first step is understanding eyebrow anatomy.
Cover image source: Freepik
